OUR INSTRUCTIONS ARE BASED ON USING A DK20S, DK3110 AND/OR A COUNTER TOP CONVECTION OVEN. TIMES AND TEMPERATURES WILL VARY DEPENDING ON WHICH EQUIPMENT YOU USE.
| Substrate | U4527, U9502, U4529, U4534, U8939 |
|---|---|
| Temperature | 400°F (204°C) |
| Prepress | 20 seconds |
| Time (min:sec) | : |
| Pressure | Medium to Heavy |
| Additional | |
| Recommended Paper | DyeTrans Multi-Purpose or TexPrint |
| Heat Press Instructions |
Hover transfer under open heat press for 10 seconds to dry excess moisture. For smaller panels 8x10” and under – 1 Minute 50 secondsFrom 8x10” to 16x20” – 2 minutes 16X20” and Larger - 2 minutes 30 seconds 48x48" - 2 min 45 seconds 1) Print the transfer on general-purpose inkjet sublimation transfer paper. Do not use Jetcol high-release paper. Make sure the transfer is completely dry. You can use the "hover" method for 15-20 seconds to dry it if you have a swing-away press. Otherwise let it dry thoroughly. When sublimating natural wood prints it is important to minimize the bleed on the transfer in order to reduce the appearance of dyes on the sides. Suggested bleed is 0.1” on all four sides. 2) Cover the bottom rubber platen with protective paper. 3) Remove plastic film from panels that have it. 4) Place the panel face up on the protective sheet. Top with another piece of paper. 5) Prepress for 20 seconds, remove from the press and let cool. 6) Lightly mist transfer with DyeTrans Pro Spray. Do not use heat tape. 7) Adhere the transfer face down on the imaging side of the substrate and smooth wrinkles. 8) Place substrate onto the press with the imaging side face-up. 9) For larger 16x20+: Cover with a piece of polypoplin fabric (PP7813). See this video: Large Format Natural Wood Panels. For Small panels. cover with protective paper. 10) Press with Temp/Time/Pressure settings listed above. Application Notes ~ If, after pressing, you notice warp in the wood panel, allow it to cool fully, then turn it over, put down protective paper and press it again for 30-60 seconds. During pressing, it is normal for trapped moisture to escape through the substrate’s edge foil. Should the edge foil come loose and flake off after transfer, this is indicative of an excessive amount of moisture within the substrate. In this instance, you will need to pre-press (and cool) your substrates twice for 30 seconds each, prior to transfer. If the problem persists, contact Condé for replacement plaques. ~ Pro Spray is really recommended for this substrate. *If you do use heat tape, be sure it does not come into contact with the heat platen or the substrate’s edge foil. Tape it only on the back of the plaque. Also, the tape should not overlap onto imaging area. The edge foil on the front of the plaque will permanently stick to heat tape after transfer. When this happens, you will see affected areas of the edge foil peel off with the tape after transfer. Should heat tape come into contact with the imaging area of the plaque, the sublimation ink will not get enough direct heat to activate. This will result in a white patch on the substrate’s imaging area. The best idea is to trim the transfer to a within a minimal bleed area and affix to the substrate using Pro Spray. Alternatively, you can print to within a minimal bleed area and wrap and tape the unimaged transfer to the back of the substrate after positioning the image onto the front of the substrate. Tips for Cutting: U9502 12”x24” Natural Wood MDF Maple sheetstock product: 1) Saw Cutting – use top and bottom dunnage to sandwich the sheet a. A standard wood working saw blade will work b. There may be some pulling/fuzzing depending on the grain direction; the dunnage board sandwich should this c. Sand edges to clean them up 2) Routing – use a compression spiral bit, climb cutting a. Unisub suggests contacting a router bit supplier for proper tooling for a veneer product 3) Laser – Unisub would not recommend, product isn’t filmed on both sides, but it is possible to do. a. Is dependent on capabilities of laser (wattage, power, and ability to have air flow) ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Q: Can these panels be engraved? A: Absolutely. They engrave either with a CO2 laser or even a rotary and they engrave very well. What they can’t do is let you darken the engraving with shoe polish, etc. In most cases with a laser, you won’t want to darken the letters but if you do, you will have to engrave through a mask and then spray paint the engraving. Using anything thin, like liquid shoe polish, will find the veins in the wood and will follow the veins making it look something like a spiderweb. This is true with most light colored woods. |